How to put in words a response so emotional, so tender, so shocked?

When viewed from the front, the unfinished work by Antoni Gaudi, The Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família (often called simply Sagrada Familia), looks futuristic with a dash of Byzantium and massive infusions of Gaudi’s iconic spirals, twistings, textures, figures... a mixture of materials and ideas. Towers, part of the apostle series more of which will ultimately be added along with the future dominating Jesus and Mary spires, can be seen from everywhere in Barcelona.

This front facade tells the story of Jesus' birth. The carvings create a visual history of the biblical story. Every element has meaning, either obvious or subtle and the effect is much like a traditional church as interpreted through the mind of a uniquely talented and creative artist.

The back facade contrasts dramatically with the front. Austere and angular, this side focuses on the death and resurrection of Jesus. Almost painful in its brutal but simple forms, Gaudi here offers a blanker palette for the sculptor, Josep Maria Subirachs, to use as a setting for these bleak yet beautiful figures. Subirachs created a visual history with his carved figures much in the tradition of medieval times, but in an acutely modern format.

I especially liked the doors which were forged with words from the Bible in various languages including Catalan... every time Jesus’ name appeared it was gilded but all other wording was a fine blue green bronze color of the weathered metal.

As fascinated as I was by the exterior of this building, nothing could have prepared me for the interior. I have never experienced such awe on entering a space with the possible exception of the Pantheon which continues to be the most significant architectural work I have yet encountered.

But this church, so largely the work of a single man, is like nothing I have ever seen. We entered a few minutes before sunset and so were able to witness the play of light through various openings and the reflections created from the changing position of the sun. The organ, just completed was being tested so music, majestic music, permeated our experience.

An unfinished work, Gaudi dedicated the last years of his life to this endeavor, actually living in the church’s crypt, working there without ceasing...with no family, no life other than incessant toil on this, his masterpiece. Pope Benedict XVI will consecrate and proclaim the church a basilica in November 2010 and there is no apparent way it will be finished although hundreds of craftsmen are working around the clock to be ready for His Holiness. When we were there, there was much pounding, heavy equipment, fences, piles of marble, as yet unlaid, for the floors. Our guide, Ingo Kühlmann, who is a member of the committee which supports the church, seemed sanguine about the essential elements being completed in time. I hope the world can see the Pope blessing it... and for sure see it more finished.

Of course it will be some years yet before all the towers are added and Gaudi's vision for Sagrada Familia is totally complete.

Yet, I wonder if it will ever be as beautiful as the moment we saw it? Cream colored stone columns, simple and strong, shooting up what seemed a hundred feet with light colored by its trip through stained glass glazing each flute. There was a misty haze (marble dust caught in the raking sunlight perhaps) that enveloped the altar yet elements of it sparkled like gems as various reflective edges were grazed by the setting sun.

As a contrast to the heavily ornamented front facade and the stark and angular back facade, the interior was free of fussiness; instead it undulated with flowing stucco forms and gleamed with white mosaic tiles which paved various elements... everything was white on cream with a soft stone color for the floor. The lights were like crystal eyes embedded in the flowing forms of the white ceiling.

If I sound too sentimental or overly romantic about this edifice it is because I am a known hopeless cause in the presence of such beauty. It is probably unnecessary to say that my eyes were wet; the story of Gaudi's dedication combined with the unexpected elegance of the church confounded me.

Comments

September 22, 2012 - 10:58 PM Maryann Murphy

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